Comments on: The Backyard Buzz – The 70% Swarm Rule

By: Raymond Hansen

Raymond Hansen — Sat, 23 May 2020 00:46:06 +0000

Dave, in the example above I gather that when you add a honey super you do not put in a queen excluder. Is that the case?

I have four hives and do not want to add any additional hives via a split yet I do not want any hive to swarm either. Not putting on a queen excluder seems to be a good solution.

thanks Dave.

By: Jim

Jim — Tue, 10 Dec 2019 14:19:21 +0000

Max,
If we we’re only neighbors. Take on a young apprentice. Local high school,church, you would be surprised the interest out there.
Jim

By: James RInkevich

James RInkevich — Tue, 30 Apr 2019 22:03:31 +0000

The Czech solar thermal hive project lead reports that allowing bees 3 full size frames of drone brood and requeening every other year stops the swarming. The theory is that with enough drone brood the bees are already contributing to the reproductive pool and don’t need to swarm as much in the second year. the first year the new queen inhibits the swarming need. I believe they use a 20 frame brood chamber which would have the same effect as your solution.

By: audrey haigis

audrey haigis — Wed, 28 Sep 2016 18:43:06 +0000

old lady here,and cant picture splitting a hive mine have swormed 2 times this mon. I only have 2 hives.one sworm has gone under my house I don’t know what to do .is there a dvd on this promlem or book whit pics? thanks for your help Audrey in texas

By: Rattlerjake

Rattlerjake — Fri, 29 Jul 2016 02:11:53 +0000

In reply to Blaine Nay. Same here, been using this "rule" for 50+ years, you'll also find it discussed in nearly ALL beekeeping literature. This author seems to think he's created something that was obvious to beekeepers for a hundred or more years. Additionally he mentions putting the new super on the top, which is actually a wrong move; it is better to always put the new super on top of the brood box and under the other supers.

By: C.A.

C.A. — Sat, 13 Jun 2015 13:05:26 +0000

70% rule.there is a saturation point when you have all the hives you(want,need,can handle).wheather you prevent them from swarming or do splits an increase in hives is just that.at this point you change gears to producing bees for sale.whats in your plan?bee an invester in sound judgement to your commitment.

By: Blaine Nay

Blaine Nay — Thu, 04 Jun 2015 20:30:07 +0000

In reply to Maxine.

My father finally got out of keeping bees at age 87. He used only 10-frame deep Langstroth equipment. One super full of honey weighs around 70 pounds and he did fine with them. Your mileage may vary.

If weight is a problem, consider using 10-frame medium or shallow boxes for both brood and honey. A full 10-frame medium will weigh about 50 pounds. If you think that’s still too heavy, you can go with 8-frame medium or shallow boxes which weigh about 40 pounds when full.

Regardless of the size of box you choose, keeping everything to one size simplifies management.

By: Blaine Nay

Blaine Nay — Thu, 04 Jun 2015 20:18:36 +0000

I learned the 70% rule over 50 years ago as a 4-H beekeeper. Our 4-H leader taught us to add a supper when 70% of the frames were full or nearly full OR when the frame top-bars are “black” with bees when lifting the cover, whichever comes first. When either condition exists, the beekeeper is inviting a swarm.

However, it’s important to NOT add too much space too soon because heating/cooling that extra volume imposes an unnecessary labor burden on the bees.

By: Maxine

Maxine — Tue, 02 Jun 2015 20:01:05 +0000

I am 73 yrs, a widow and interested in keeping chickens and bees. My health is good, and I do a sml at of gardening. Do you think it reasonable for a person my age to attempt beekeeping? Does the task require heavy lifting? Thanks, Max